Baselining - 369 HBF - 860871 - Before the Upgrades

Plenum Refurb

Having recently accquired a few E-Type books:-

My favourites:

E -Type Originality & Restoration Guide - By Dr Haddock
A rare book but I think I got it at a good price £85 - The wife didnt think it was a bargain when Iasked her to pay
for it on Ebay

Original Jaguar E-Type - By Philip Porter

The problem when you buy books like these you see whats not right on your car and you get addicted to get detail perfected.

Anyway my plenum \ air intake box wasnt right it was smooth silver not Hammerite, the air intake trumpet was
refurbed when my winter refurbishment was going on.

Before removal:



Plaque removed after applying some heat:



A couple of before shots in the workshop:





After some sounding down, washing and drying the first coat was applied



Still WIP

Cam Cover & Fan Relay

So the Cam cover came back from the Welders and to be honest i was dissapointed if I had collected it I wouldnt of kept quite as the presentation side has bubbled


Plus it looks like to much heat has been applied



Anyway I fitted the Cam Cover cam cover back on.

All I wanteded to do really was fit the fan relay, as many of you know Im useless at electrics and my car has so many odd pieces of wire under the bonnet it doesnt make the job easier.

Geoff another E-Type owner I know offered to come round and help me sort it, I was aiming for this set up.



So Id ordered the relay a Lucas 6RA (replica) and it came with a diagram.

But it turned out the diagram supplied wasnt the correct layout for the terminals on the relay so after some testing from Geoff he worked out which terminals were whitch and we wired up and tested it.



Now in place its not quite as tidy as Geoffs as my wires off the loom are very short it was ok to wire up when not in situ but bolting it on was easier said than done. I think a new loom will be on my Job List for the winter so if anyone knows the cheapest place to source one please let me know



After it was all fitted I took it for a gentle drive, down the A59 then back through Whalley :-D
It sat on about 72c once warmed up so all seems ok there.

Under the bonnet when I got back , the 1\2lb of Ali they welded on seems to have done the trick



So at the moment it looks like Cinders will go to the show next Sunday

General Tinkering

After talking to my mate today who Im going to the show with next sunday he advised me my car might get judged

I thought I was just going to park in some grounds among some other nice old Jaguars from the North West Jaguar Club. Seems not the case

So I was out after work tonight sorting a few niggly jobs out:

1) Put the badge back on my Plenum



2) Changed my brake pipes over as one had kinked and wouldnt straighten
Now got the proper braided pipes looks much better





3) Swapped the water transmitter sensor out

Re-Wiring the Fan from the Loom

The other day I asked on a forum if anyone had taken any pictures of me
Peter Crespin happily posted this image



The story behind the image is my car got quite warm heading down to the Cotswolds well it went up to 110 on the gauge.

Discussing it with Pete at Prescott and ruling a lot of things out as ther Rad had been flushed new pipes and coolant etc etc.

He asked me to turn the key on checking the fan it was throwing the cold out the front and not in the engine

Pete advised the wire from the loom to the fan motor were round the wrong way even though black was plugged into black and green and black into green & black swapped them round and all was fine and the car was happy going up the M5, M6 & M65 on the way home another electical issue sorted Cheers Pete

Wheel Alignment - Toe-in

Since putting the back on the road at the back end of April my Toe-in hadnt been right as whenever the petrol tank was full or empty the steering wheel was at a different position so today I had time to take the to ATS I had been recommended them by someone I met recently from Autotune Ltd (Rishton) check out their website

Down at ATS we got her on the ramp



Which was handy in it itself as I wanted to check out my Oil leak (more on that later)

According to the:


Jaguar 'E' Type Operating, Maintenance & Service Manual

The toe-in should be 1\16" -1\8" or 1.6 - 3.2mm

When the car was set up with the laser its readings were:

Front left -2.5
Front Right +1.0

Apparently you take these from each other, mine totaling -1.5 and what we were really aiming for was +1.5

With the front readings of the above it gave rear readings of:

Rear Left 11.5
Rear Right 7.0

These should be equal on the rear.

The fronts got altered so they equaled 1.5 after the sum

This gave the rears both side being 10

Also my steering wheel is now straight when driving in a straight line

Oil Leak

Firstly as you can see by the the PO has painted the torsion bars red

Another job

Back to the leak you can see the oil is flowing from between the oil filter head and the block



I think I might just have to a quick fix until next oil change, I think it will be a case of rubbing some Hylomar Blue
in that area and seeing if it lasts till the oil change at the end of summer

MOT 12\07\2010

Car had its first MOT in my ownership July 12th 2010

It passed

7461smile last MOT this years reading was 8851 miles

1390 miles covered so far in my ownership

Self - Cancelling Indicators (Not)

As it says on the heading the indicators arent self cancelling this appears to be happening since the wheels were aligned Its not worth taking it back and get re-aligned but here are my findings.

Ive taken the indicator cover assembly off both sides to have a look, so self canceller where its supposed to be.



This is the piece that cancels the indicator out in front of my finger (currently on top) and it should be on the right hand side between the cancelling arrows, this got moved round when the guy at the garage turned my steering wheel and clamped it in place to set the toe in As you can see the cancelling piece is short somehow when they turned it, it snapped as it was welded or something like it already.



I rang my regular suppliers Hutsons this morning and they told me they dont make part no. C.16451 anymore so I started off trying to source a SH one.
My first stop was SNG Barratts and believe it or not they had nine on the shelf brand new, I was pleased the part can be got but
Hopefully the part will arrive in the morning but as you will no doubt gather the Upper Steering Column Assembly will have to come out to change it.

I seem to remember taking all that last Autumn, as usual I'll keep you posted

USC Stripdown





4 nuts and bots off and its out



With the column on the bench slip the USC through the assembly to remove the indicator cancel bracket.

Heres the new one against the old as you can see its totally wrong





I grabbed the old one and the piece broken off it and took it to the metal works round the corner £3 to weld it as against £30.09 for the new part and PP.





All back together and ready to roll

Camshaft Oil Filler Cap - Trick

I noticed at Prescott that someone had there Oil Filler cap up the right way:

Jaguar

Up the right way

Unlike mine



O' ring



O'ring v Gasket



Happy Days



Its just one of those annoying things I was glad to rectify for the part number PM me

Air Balance Pipe & Throttle Slave Shaft Assembly

With ABP being the last part of the engine that can be polished not polished I have finally got it removed, being careful of the Water Outlet Pipe I set to work



Few before strip down











Checking out the clips securing the control rods





The Throttle Slave Assembly Centre (TSAC) out



The TSAC and Rear TSAR both out now



The TSAR goes into a bush assembly supporting the end of RS Shaft all part of the Accelerator controls

Air Intake \ Carb Insulator Gaskets

Stripped down this is what we have, as you can see there is a slight weep on the insulators between the AI & C so the carbs are comingin off when the parts arrive, hopefully in the morning



Withe Air Intake also back from the polishers I just put it in place for the

Removing the Triple SU's

This is one job Ive always been a bit worried about doing but once starting it wasnt so daunting and as the air balance pipe was off things were easier to get to.

The reason for removing them was a slight weepage on the insulator gasket (all replacements on order)



As usual I took a few pictures before I started for reference purposes when putting them back together.

I removed the plenum and air intake box but left the trumpets attached as I thought this would give me something to get hold of when moving them.







Return spring attached to the anchors

Carb1



Carb2


Carb3


Again, I left the Petrol Feed Pipe assembly On and Filters in as I only need to move the Unit about two inches towards me. This picture shows the overflow pipes removed. When you take them out be careful of all the fibre washers under the overflows



As usual when you have a set of nuts to remove (excuse me ) its always the last one, in the most difficult to access place which is the problem today wasnt any different carb1 bottom left just above the starter motor turned and turned realising the stud was turning out and once out there isnt enough room to pull it through.

Again.



My only option was to offer the carbs back up after applying the stud with some locktite and wait for it to cure, before undoing the nut again.

As the last bottom nut didnt come off the front anchor hasnt been removed which as you can tell by the others, it needs to so it can be refurbished before refitting.

Fully Removed Triple SUs

With the awkward stud screwed back in with locktite I let it cure, screwed it out again and the came out again



Well this wasnt the plan but on visiting a friend at a garage to get some welding done on an exhaust bracket on my daily driver, the owner came out and we spoke about balancing my carbs which we had talked about him doing previously.

When I mentioned they were more or less off he said it was the best time to overhaul them if I wanted, well they most probably werent done since '78-80 at the main restoration so he I agreed to have them done. I advised the were still connected by the choke cable and I wasnt really too sure how to remove it. He agreed to come to my house and remove it

Tonight there was a bit of in the garage and they were off:



Left with this I can get a good clean up done before they come back we had them off for 8.30pm and he advised when leaving he was going to take the first carb apart tonight order the right kit in the morning and would get onto it when the kit arrived

All good practice because which ever 420G I end up with this will deffinately need doing on that old girl when it arrives

Refitting the Triple SUs HD8s

The Carb set up got delivered back last night, so Ive cracked on with it tonight to start with the refitting:

First I put the stud back in and secured it with loctite, then put on the insulators and gaskets, I reused the old insulators as the new ones were about 2 mm thick



Quick of the back veiw before I hung them on the studs (I think the mechanic though I was a bit crazy when I gave him the pillow to take the carbs away on)



Next put the 12 nuts back on the studs



Remove the 6 nuts to remove the air intake trumpets, these now need to be off for access for when there balanced, Tony is coming back to do this



Next I connected up the oil beather pipe as it had to come off to remve the carbs, so hose back on and the bracket under the Air Intake Manifold



Next a bit of refurbing as the last anchor was removed with the carbs off I refurbished it, this is how they should go on when fitted



Then I refurbed the control rods which go between the carb levers and slave shafts, new clips (Apparently 3.8 rods are longer than 4.2 and arent available now)

So heres where Im at with my newly polished Air Balance Pipe - this is what came off initially and its got a bit out of control



Just been to have a look at where Im up to and noticed Ive not put the control rods up before putting the ABP on.

Completing the Refit of the Triple SUs

My first job today was to refit the track rods so they went up behind the air intake pipes.

Then I tightened all the nuts holding the carbs to the intake manifolds and put the spring anchors back on Id refurbished



I cut an old 1\2" spanner down to make access easier on the underneath nuts





Next I put the fuel filters back in followed by new washers and banjos as my old banjos were a bit chewed so the chap
who refurbed carbs told me



There they are:



All secured, fuel pipe attached :



This picture shows the overflows fitted - Remember to number on removal



Next another overflow fitted this was an imperial sized nut:



Just the Throttle Slave Shaft to go

Fitting the Throttle Slave Shaft

Here is a diagram of what we are rebuilding here the "Accelerator Controls" Part 1 being the Accelerator pedal



This update has been a while coming as I needed some micro spanners which came



For the choke cable not the TSS



Put some protection on the Air Balance Pipe (ABP) as you have to knock the tab washers over when you put the Adaptors in (parts 17 & 18)
the front and rear boss on the ABP.



With the bush assembly fitted slide the end of the rear slave shaft in and put the other end in the Adaptor



When in place bend over the Tab Washer (19)

next rebuild the front SS assembly



Next, the control rods and clips all need fixing together





Then you are here:

Re-connecting the Choke Cable

Armed with shiney lets get on with it

With the actual choke cable already secured in place lets tackle the Adaptor, which secures
the choke control cable (CCC) in place. This is in the 3rd picture down in the thread above

A picture from underneath shows the CCC casing (CCCC) in place on top of the bolt



Well undo it and get the inner cable in the Adaptor, tighten the Adaptor, then relocate the CCCC under the bolt after pulling tight.



Then I turned her on and off a few times to fill up the carbs and check for leaks, all good

A bit of choke and she started first time



Ready to be syncronized tonight

Synchronising the Triple HD SU8's

Anthony has just been up and done the final stage of my Carb overhaul, Im not writting the whole process out so follow this:

Syncronising The Triple Carbs

This is something that always gets overlooked on a restoration but I tell you it has been well worth it the engine sounds so much nicer on tick over.

In the end the tick over has been set to 725 -750rpm but after a good blast it should stabelise....

The carbs were set a bit lean:

1) Better MPG
2) No horrible blue smoke out the rear on start up which I had before

Now to get the oil change done, sort out the leaks and give her a

11\09\2010 - 9050miles Oil Change

Oil used 8.5litres - Millers 20\50 Classic

Turned the engine on for a couple of mins to thin the oil a bit, removed the sump plug:



For a 1000 mile oil change I thought the oil was very black

Changed the filter wiped out the cover.



New gasket, hose and Jubilees clips as they had failed, two studs came out so had to loctite them back in

Problems with Tick- Over

After the oil change the other day I took the out for a

On the way home I pulled over and the tick over whilst hot was flitting between
950 -1050rpm.

The manual quotes 500rpm but Ive read the lowest people go is 600rpm normally
they get set to 750rpm (which is the correct setting for the 4.2l)

Anyway I gave Anthony a ring and told him, he said bring it down while hot in other words after a good

So I called in earlier and would you believe it, while hot the car ticked over at 750rpm

After a bit of anylising Anthony advised the springs needed changing as they werent pulling shut properly.

Also to oil the spindles on each carb.

Driving In The Dark

Apologies for no mechanical updates recently but all seems good under the hood at the moment So if its not broken dont fix it. Plus time for is an issue at the moment

As the weather is on the turn here in UK Im getting as much driving in at the week-ends with the old girl, car not the wife

Sunday we went to friends for a lazy lunch and before long I realised it was dark outside and I had to drive some windy A roads unlit to get to the M6 motorway to get us home.

This being the first Id driven the E in the dark I was surprised at how dim the highlights were so this will be a job for the near future - an upgrade on the headlights to make it more suitable for night driving, not that I'll do alot of night driving but it will be safer when I do...

After typing that I've just thought Id best check the 420G lights at night as well, even though it will be a slightly newer car. It will be interesting to see how bright they are

2011 First Drive

First drive of the year in the E did a few

For a change, whilst out

Removing the Front Bumpers from a Jaguar E-Type

This was one of those jobs that the green manual explained in about two sentences so I thought briliiant

So with the chrome bolts out of the chrome holding ring.





Next remove the rubber gasket:







Then remove the headlamp surrounds







With the lens off and the headlamp surrounds off, rest the head lamps on the sugar scoops:

Jaguar E-Type Front Bumper Removal

I'll let the pictures do the talking:-

Looking forward to seeing the re-chromed bumpers fitted....